Day 4 Rabat to Fez

Grey sky in Rabat. We packed up and had breakfast at Le Pietri. Settled bill there and then brought the car around to load it. The street "attendant" wanted to get paid for two days supervision. I offered some change but he wanted more and made a fuss. Guittel mentionned that our tires had been slashed and he said  that it was not in their culture to do that. Who knows, because it may have been kids on the street, which meant he wasn't watching anyway. The hundred year old man survived until this morning and he had his hand out for more money as well. Anyway we left and circled around several banks trying to change traveller's cheques and getting refused. Then we drove to the Royal Palace and this time were turned away by being at the worng gate. His loss anyway. Then we drove through the outskirts and onto the highway to Meknes. Good divided highway with many speed traps as welll as clean rest stops. At the side of the road, sheep, cows, and roasted chestnut vendors. As we drove on the scenery changed and became more rural and more mountainous.
 We arrived on the outskirts of Meknes and somehow Guittel remembered the way into the nouvelle ville and we found her grandmother's old apartment and then her grandparents old house (newly restored in the no longer Jewish district). Then back across town to find the old cemetery grounds where relatives were buried. In the rain, Guittel and Kate went in and found the graves. They took some pictures and then came back to the car. It was pouring and our search for a "suitable" restaurant somehow took us to the Moroccan Meknessi Pizza Hut branch. The look was right but the menu featured Pizza Schwarma Deluxe which was actually quite tasty, much to my embarassment. Yesterday Mega Mall , today Pizza Hut. Never again. American culture is a weapon of mass destruction....
After lunch we went to see the remains of the Royal Granaries built by Moulay Idriss in the seventeenth century. A guid latched onto us and impressed Guittel into an "extravagant" tip at the end of a twenty minute tour and several photos. The building was impressive in size and you can imagine what it was supposed to be like. The walls around the city were also huge. Rain came down again and we felt that going to Volubilis would be too much so we headed onward to Fes. Somehow we found the old medina after passing through a big chunk of the Nouvelle ville, actually looking more prosperous and clean than Rabat or Casa had been. We got lost looking for our riad but a guy on a motorcycle resuced us and guided us to a garage and the Riad Damia, whiich we had reserved. The alleys were narrow and the garage looked even more dodgy with the requisite somewaht toothless attendant. We parked and dragged our bags a bit up the hillside to the bolted, studded door of the riad. The motorcyclist was thanked and he offered the help of his brother the official guide for tomorrow. The Riad main room was impressively high and elaborate. It was the former home of the owner's grandparents and so filled with antiques. We were warmly welcomed by the manager Adnin and escorted up to our apartment on the top floor, a bedroom, a second smaller room, a large living room and a full bathroom with a smaller WC. Not as modern as I expected but quite nice. The view was difficult to appreciate at night and with another strong downpour. Mint tea in the lobby and a little internet helped us relax. Our host arranged for a "real guide" for the medina for tomorrow AM. We had verbalinstructions how to go to a nearby restaurant. The maze of streets got us off kilter quickly and we all were afraid of being lost until a young Fassi took pity on us and walked us to a nice restaurnat called Dar Batha. It was a beautiful room with two musicians and the usual Moroccan decor. We ordered and were fed fully and well sated. Nerves were calmed and our young guide even came by to walk us back to the Riad, since he lived almost next door. He refused money and offered his services to guide us around the medina as well. Clealry we have too many guides and not a clue how to get around! To top off the evening, first one grandfather called on the cellphone and then we reached the other grandparents through the miracle of Skype. Thank you Martha and Shura for your news and even with the echo it worked out okay. I hope they will follow along with this blog. Tomorrow, Xmas Day and Friday here in Fes will be an exciting and we hope dry day. Good night from all.