Day 14- Closing Tripping Morocco

Slept at the Hotel Anezi, 4 star hotel drifting down to 3 star rapidly (poor elevators, ants in bathroom, poor plumbing and inadequate breakfast buffet). Had stayed up late typing yesterday’s blog in lobby of the hotel (WiFi only in lobby). Actually there was a good rock group playing cover and original songs in the bar). Woke up early at 7:15 AM to greet the sunshine and go for a run. So dressed for the climate and customs, I headed out towards the beach. I ran down the hill and along the beach boardwalk. On the beach side, a broad swath of sand with people running, walking, playing soccer despite the early hour. On the land side, there were multiple resorts such Club Med Agadir and Riu Tikul as well as restaurants ranging McDonald’s to chic. Had a good half hour run with the sun rising and the moon still out. Ships were riding high on the horizon waiting to get into Agadir harbor. I tried to imagine what had been there prior to the earthquake of 1960. Back to the hotel and the final preparations for breakfast and then departure. The breakfast buffet was disappointing compared to all the others of the last two weeks. Many voices were in Romanian, suggesting that the East Bloc can now afford to tour. We paid up and transferred the bags downstairs to putt-putt for the drive to the airport. Despite a few signs, we managed to need to stop for directions from a policier, and there was a “tout drrroit” response. We met Amine from Receptours at the departure area as planned. No formalities just a merci for his help. I don’t know if he expected a tip as everyone else did.

In the airport at Agadir, we managed to hit all the slow lines at Royal Air Maroc, passeport control and then security. A smile and patience to get through to the gates. Our flight to Casa left only a few minutes late. Guittel was sitting next to a young Moroccan woman with a six month old baby. She lives in Montreal and agreed with our observations about driving and tipping in Morocco. She told us that the parking attendants should only get a couple of dirhams and we were getting ripped-off. The flight to Casa was brief and uneventful. Then we had to find our gate for Montreal. The flight was not listed and then suddenly listed as boarding. We had to pass through security twice again, even though we had already done so in Agadir. The duty free shops only accepted Euros or dollars, and gave change in dirhams, so only chocolate was purchased. Then we were bused to a peripheral gate where the plane had not yet arrived. Another line up with document check and then some of the passengers were put on buses to go 100 metres to the plane and outside stairwell. After a logjam at the door and at the stairwell, they decided the rest of us could safely walk to the plane. Third world organization, not really designed to be neither efficient nor envied. The plane filled up and we took off an hour late, perhaps fittingly on “Moroccan time”, ending our tripping Morocco.

Some random thoughts:


I would have changed the itinerary to include more Fez and Marrakech time as well as Essaouira. Agadir was not really interesting and we should have booked a different return to Montreal. Riads and small hotels are more interesting and usually better quality. Driving in Casablanca was a terrifying experience after a night on the plane. Although I got used to Moroccan driving habits, I would tell others to be careful if they want to drive. The roads are adequate but require concentration, patience and some nerve. The Moroccans are polite, friendly and smooth talkers. I was quite impressed how many if not most made the effort to appeal to tourists in whatever language. Much of the beauty of places may be hidden behind walls or doors, so the unknowing tourist needs to hunt out good things such as restaurants (for example the Dar Batha in Fez medina, almost lost in the fear of dark twisty lanes of night time medina.) Planning is important and for the most part we did well. December is a rainy month and perhaps not the best to travel in. Technologies such as cell phones, solar panels, satellite dishes and the internet change a society. Religion can be a glue to a society or a brake to progress, now as in the past.

Trip moments:

Driving in Casablanca the first hour.

The food in most places, especially the tagines.

The Fez medina tour (behind the scenes with Rachid)

Sunset, moonlight and sunrise in Merzouga/ Erg Chebbi

The Kasbah Oudaya in Rabat and Ait Ben Hadou

Shopping in the souks of Marrakesh

Dealing with the flat tires in Rabat and the parking attendants.

Breakfast in Essaouira on the rooftop of Dar L’Oussia.

The breathtaking views while driving south from Fez to Erfoud and north from Ouerzazate to Marrakesh.



Next time to Morocco a different focus and attitude perhaps.

Day 13 Essaouira to Agadir

I was awakened by the gulls and the sunlight coming into the room. The heated ceramic floor made getting out of bed a little bit easier. Guittel went to the hammam for a session while arbitrated with the children next door to get ready and head for breakfast. The breakfast at Dar L’oussia was served on the rooftop terasse, five floors above ground with a gentle breeze, strong morning sun and comfortable chairs and tables arranged around the roof, overlooking the courtyard. Several families and couples were already being served. We took our places in the midst of the seagulls and were served coffee au lait, fresh orange juice, crepes, yogurt, baguette with bread and jams etc. Service was elegant and likely a hint of what the restaurant for evening meals was like. Unfortunately we did not get to try either the bar or the restaurant. The décor was elegant Moroccan but the striking feature was the large black and white portraits of older African men. Saved for another trip, I guess.

After the morning meal, we paraded out around the port of Essouira and scala du port. The smell was overwhelmingly fish, the cannon and walls were Portuguese but the men on the docks were all Moroccan. The fishing boats are all blue and the seagulls swooped over the harbor and the shore, waiting to be scavengers.We then walked into the square and through some of the maze of alleys that are named streets. Shops with souvenirs and crafts mixed in with the occasional gallery and restaurant. Cafes were everywhere as fitting the lifestyle and sunshine. We wandered through the medina some more and then later had lunch at a café in the square. My grilled sardines were light, salty and crispy. No beer available to wash them down with. The other s ate well also and the scavengers cats were always in evidence waiting for our droppings. The whole area was crowded with locals and tourists since it was Saturday.

Mid afternoon we carted our baggage out of Dar L’Oussia, regretting that we only had one night there and in Essaouira. We loaded the car up after the street attendant moved a few cars for us so that we could open the back doors. He literally pushed the cars on the level street to make space. (All of us had left the parking brakes off. This was one of the most efficient uses of parking space.) We drove down the beach road and saw the more conventional part of the town. Then it was 170 km down the road to Agadir. Now although the map shows a straight highway much of the distance, there was no straight section of the road anywhere until near Agadir. Moroccan engineers seem to have a disdain for topography and build roads in a twisting, turning fashion up and down hillsides and mountains. The drive was scenic as usual, first inland and then over the coast road with the Atlantic crashing on the rough shoreline. As we approached Agadir, there were more surfers and beach activity as we saw on a similar drive down the California coast a few years ago. Finally at 5PM we arrived on the road overlooking Agadir, a city of white buildings, built since the destructive quake of 1960. Our hotel, the Anezi was centrally located but a bit dated in appearance and functioning. We did catch a great view from balconies of our adjoining rooms. We walked 10 blocks to find a pizzeria, La Sicilenne, which was recommended in the books. We could see that Agadir was different from other Moroccan cities. The pizza was authentic Italian style but with Moroccan twists and service. Ironically, since the restaurant was a WiFi spot, I also read about the shooting and funeral of Nick Rizzuto in Montreal. Sent an email home and then Guittel and I drove putt-putt around the beach area and downtown for a few minutes to see what the night time action was about. The city is just a big resort and not that much different from other similar places. Tomorrow, last day.

Day 12- New Year's Day

The day started like many others, grey sky, slowly awakening children and a busy agenda planned. This time we were mostly up by 8:15 AM and having breakfast buffet at the hotel. Selection okay but less staff on hand. Lots of dried candies on the floor and photographs on display in the lobby of the goings on in the hotel. We packed up and checked out, putting our stuff in the car. Putt-putt stayed in the parking lot while we walked to the medina and Djemaa el Fna. We saw our requisite snake charmer from a distance and the monkee was turning somersaults as usual. We headed toward the souks and did some shopping and haggling. Sometimes we walked away without purchasing as the merchants thought Guittel was offering too little. Kids were somewhat interested and bought some of the things they wanted. Taxi back to hotel and then we drove north to the Majorelle Gardens. There we saw the beautiful and colourful garden that Yves Saint Laurent had maintained after the original owner died. The cacti, bamboo and the colours were striking and perhaps, typically modern Moroccan, rather than traditional.The digital archive continued to grow as we clicked away.
After the Gardens, we had lunch at a cafe on Mohammed V, paninis and  Moroccan versions of caesar salad and club sandwich. Then we hit the road in our car to Essaouira on the coast, There is some construction but on the whole it rolled along well. We arrived on the coast in time to get a glimpse of the sun setting over the Atlantic and the lights coming on in the town. Essarouira is a port with Portuguese roots. Lately with an excellent beach, good surfing and an artist community it has developed. The city and people look typically Moroccan and the Medina is similar to others in crowding, style of shopping and cleanliness (low). The buildings in the medina are old but surrounding and near the huge walls, the riads have developed and the restaurants have become sophisticated. Our riad, Dar L'oussia is just inside the walls, so we parked putt-putt on the street and paid the street watcher 30Dh. Then a porter came and took our bags to the Riad around the corner. The entrance revealed a beautiful open courtyard surrounded by four floors of the building and rooms. The central fountain is filled with rose petals, and there were ground-floor restaurant  and bar areas.The rooftop terrace is also the breakfast area. The rooms are simply decorated with large frame beds and local furniture. The bathrooms have showers with tadelakt finishing, and most impressively the heating comes from radiant heating under the ceramic floors.The other guests seem quiet and the French restaurant was not too busy, but the quiet was punctuated by the shrieking of seagulls who live on the roof and squawk down the open courtyard.
We settled in and had the usual debate over bed assignments by the kids. Then we walked the main street of the medina and did some more shopping. Supper was at a local restaurant featuring Moroccan and French food, Le Mechouar. There was good entertainment with musicians and singers as well as percussionist. The service was slow but the food waas excellent. The area just outside the medina, where our riad is locted has a cleaneer look and the surf is audible above the noise of the town.  From first glance it would seem to be a city that offered a beautifuk taste of the Moroccan coastline.

Day 11 Marrakech

Bad weather showed up early with rain and clouds in the morning . I went for a run in the rain and cold in the early morning, then we all woke up after and piled into the busy breakfast area. A large buffet awaited us, we prepared for the day in town and this allowed the sun to break out. To get to the Koutoubia Mosque, we all got into a horse drawn caleche and rode through the crowded streets past the Moumounia Hotel to the landmark Koutoubia tower and mosque. Of course, non Muslims cannot enter so we moved on to the Place DJemaa El Fna. Quite a scene although not what usually goes on at night yet. Many food carts were already in place as well as a few snake charmers and a performing monkey. We then plunged into the souks, narrow streets crammed with small stores selling and displaying all the handicrafts and other goods one could imagine. Calls and invitations to enter came from all corners and in all languages. Pedestrians competed against bicycles, mopeds, hand carts and the occasional mule. Some streets had wooden objects, food, spices, hats, shoes, jewelry and pottery to no end. We stuck to the main streets but did not really get out to the other areas of the medina. Watching Guittel bargain made the whole thing more interesting. Several hours later, we ended back in the Place at a restaurant for lunch. Delicious tagines helped us fill up. Mine was lamb with figs, the tender meat falling off the bone amidst the sauce, almonds and figs.

The afternoon was then spent visiting other sites such as the Saadian Tombs, from the early days of Marrakesh and the Palais de Bahia, a large house built around several central traditional courtyards. The rooms show the typical elaborate carvings, wooden decorated ceilings and mosaic tiles. Intermingled with the traditional décor were works of modern art including some quirky installations.We crammed into a grand taxi back to the hotel and took a little break trying to book a restaurant for dinner. understandably with New Year's Eve, all the recommended places were "complet" or outrageoously priced with special dinners. Finally we found a small French bistro not too far from the hotel by car. A short battle with traffic and we were there for 7:30 PM, relatively early by Marrakesh standards. New Year's is a big event in this tourist/expatriate city but even the locals seem to celebrate. The restaurant, Metro 80, was a small two storey bistro. They had a DJ and decorations for New Years. We took dinner a la carte and all enjoyed the meal. We drove back to the hotel, the Golden Tulip Farah, planning to go to the Place for late evening entertainment but somehow we did not get there. So New Year's Eve countdown was spent watching Arabic television, and that was the beginning of 2010 in Marrakesh!