Day 14- Closing Tripping Morocco

Slept at the Hotel Anezi, 4 star hotel drifting down to 3 star rapidly (poor elevators, ants in bathroom, poor plumbing and inadequate breakfast buffet). Had stayed up late typing yesterday’s blog in lobby of the hotel (WiFi only in lobby). Actually there was a good rock group playing cover and original songs in the bar). Woke up early at 7:15 AM to greet the sunshine and go for a run. So dressed for the climate and customs, I headed out towards the beach. I ran down the hill and along the beach boardwalk. On the beach side, a broad swath of sand with people running, walking, playing soccer despite the early hour. On the land side, there were multiple resorts such Club Med Agadir and Riu Tikul as well as restaurants ranging McDonald’s to chic. Had a good half hour run with the sun rising and the moon still out. Ships were riding high on the horizon waiting to get into Agadir harbor. I tried to imagine what had been there prior to the earthquake of 1960. Back to the hotel and the final preparations for breakfast and then departure. The breakfast buffet was disappointing compared to all the others of the last two weeks. Many voices were in Romanian, suggesting that the East Bloc can now afford to tour. We paid up and transferred the bags downstairs to putt-putt for the drive to the airport. Despite a few signs, we managed to need to stop for directions from a policier, and there was a “tout drrroit” response. We met Amine from Receptours at the departure area as planned. No formalities just a merci for his help. I don’t know if he expected a tip as everyone else did.

In the airport at Agadir, we managed to hit all the slow lines at Royal Air Maroc, passeport control and then security. A smile and patience to get through to the gates. Our flight to Casa left only a few minutes late. Guittel was sitting next to a young Moroccan woman with a six month old baby. She lives in Montreal and agreed with our observations about driving and tipping in Morocco. She told us that the parking attendants should only get a couple of dirhams and we were getting ripped-off. The flight to Casa was brief and uneventful. Then we had to find our gate for Montreal. The flight was not listed and then suddenly listed as boarding. We had to pass through security twice again, even though we had already done so in Agadir. The duty free shops only accepted Euros or dollars, and gave change in dirhams, so only chocolate was purchased. Then we were bused to a peripheral gate where the plane had not yet arrived. Another line up with document check and then some of the passengers were put on buses to go 100 metres to the plane and outside stairwell. After a logjam at the door and at the stairwell, they decided the rest of us could safely walk to the plane. Third world organization, not really designed to be neither efficient nor envied. The plane filled up and we took off an hour late, perhaps fittingly on “Moroccan time”, ending our tripping Morocco.

Some random thoughts:


I would have changed the itinerary to include more Fez and Marrakech time as well as Essaouira. Agadir was not really interesting and we should have booked a different return to Montreal. Riads and small hotels are more interesting and usually better quality. Driving in Casablanca was a terrifying experience after a night on the plane. Although I got used to Moroccan driving habits, I would tell others to be careful if they want to drive. The roads are adequate but require concentration, patience and some nerve. The Moroccans are polite, friendly and smooth talkers. I was quite impressed how many if not most made the effort to appeal to tourists in whatever language. Much of the beauty of places may be hidden behind walls or doors, so the unknowing tourist needs to hunt out good things such as restaurants (for example the Dar Batha in Fez medina, almost lost in the fear of dark twisty lanes of night time medina.) Planning is important and for the most part we did well. December is a rainy month and perhaps not the best to travel in. Technologies such as cell phones, solar panels, satellite dishes and the internet change a society. Religion can be a glue to a society or a brake to progress, now as in the past.

Trip moments:

Driving in Casablanca the first hour.

The food in most places, especially the tagines.

The Fez medina tour (behind the scenes with Rachid)

Sunset, moonlight and sunrise in Merzouga/ Erg Chebbi

The Kasbah Oudaya in Rabat and Ait Ben Hadou

Shopping in the souks of Marrakesh

Dealing with the flat tires in Rabat and the parking attendants.

Breakfast in Essaouira on the rooftop of Dar L’Oussia.

The breathtaking views while driving south from Fez to Erfoud and north from Ouerzazate to Marrakesh.



Next time to Morocco a different focus and attitude perhaps.